Cities and consumption: Local solutions to curb textile waste and combat fast fashion

Theresa Mörsen, November 2024

Zero Waste Europe

To download : zwe_nov24_report_textilesufficiency_edited.pdf (10 MiB)

An alarming finding : fast fashion, an environmental and social scourge

The global fashion industry has experienced unprecedented growth in recent decades. Since the year 2000, fibre production has more than doubled, and every European discards an average of 16 kg of textiles per year, amounting to a total of 6.95 million tonnes for the European Union in 2020. Yet only 12 per cent of this waste is collected separately for recycling or reuse. The rest ends up in ordinary bins, then is incinerated or landfilled, exacerbating pollution and the waste of resources.

Fast fashion, characterised by low prices, fleeting trends and mass production, has transformed our consumption patterns. Clothes are now discarded after just a few wears, often because they do not fit properly or are perceived as having little value, rather than because they are actually worn out. Worse still, this industry relies on petroleum-derived synthetic materials, precarious working conditions and the externalisation of environmental and social costs.

Faced with this reality, European cities – which are most directly affected by textile waste management – are seeking local solutions to reduce overconsumption and promote more sustainable fashion. This is all the more pressing given that, from 2025, the European Union will require local authorities to collect textiles separately – an obligation that presents a significant logistical and economic challenge.

Textile sufficiency: a systemic response

The concept of sufficiency is emerging as a radical alternative to overconsumption. Unlike the circular economy, which focuses on resource efficiency (recycling, reuse), sufficiency aims to reduce the consumption of raw materials as much as possible, whilst ensuring human well-being within planetary boundaries.

In Europe, where consumption far exceeds the planet’s ecological capacity, textile sufficiency is becoming a necessity. According to a recent study, a sustainable level of consumption would be around five new items of clothing per person per year — a figure far removed from the 68 items of clothing purchased on average each year by a European.

To achieve this, local authorities have three main tools at their disposal :

• Influencing purchasing behaviour (by restricting advertising, regulating sales, etc.).

• Extending the lifespan of garments (through repair, reuse and refurbishment).

• Raising public awareness (educational campaigns, events, workshops).

Influencing purchasing behaviour : limiting the influence of advertising

One of the most effective measures for reducing overconsumption of textiles is to regulate advertising, a tool already used successfully to limit the consumption of tobacco and alcohol. Several European cities have taken the plunge :

• Lyon has reduced the number of advertising hoardings in public spaces by 75 per cent and limited their size. This decision is supported by 80 per cent of Lyon’s residents, who see it as an opportunity for local businesses.

• Geneva has launched the ‘Zero Pub’ initiative, which aims to ban commercial advertising from public spaces. Although the 2023 referendum was narrowly rejected, the debate has inspired other Swiss municipalities (such as Lancy, Vernier and Bern) to restrict outdoor advertising.

• Edinburgh has banned adverts for oil companies, airports, petrol-powered cars and SUVs, arguing that “the promotion of products with a high carbon footprint is incompatible with our carbon-neutrality targets”.

These measures, although contested by certain economic stakeholders, show that cities can use cultural and commercial levers to discourage overconsumption.

Repair and reuse : making something new from something old

Reuse and repair are cornerstones of textile sustainability. However, it is crucial to ensure that these practices do not fuel further overconsumption (as is sometimes the case with online retail platforms, which encourage a rapid turnover of clothing).

Several European cities have introduced practical measures :

• In Flanders (Belgium), a reuse target of 8 kg per inhabitant has been set, with the creation of reuse centres in each region. Social enterprises also receive grants to cover part of their operating costs, particularly wages.

• In Austria, a ‘repair bonus’ reimburses up to 50 per cent of the cost of clothing repairs, encouraging citizens to extend the lifespan of their clothes.

• In Copenhagen, the ‘ Det Kollektive Klædeskab ’ (the collective wardrobe) initiative allows members to drop off unused clothes and acquire others in exchange for points, thereby promoting a local circular economy.

Cities can also support non-commercial models, such as repair cafés, clothes swaps or clothes libraries (where you borrow clothes just as you would borrow a book). These initiatives, often led by citizens or organisations, deserve logistical and financial support from local authorities.

Raising awareness and educating : changing mindsets

For citizens to adopt more sustainable behaviours, it is essential to educate and engage them. Several cities have launched ambitious campaigns :

• Ghent (Belgium) organises the annual ‘ Fair Fashion Fest ’, a festival dedicated to ethical and sustainable fashion, featuring clothes swaps, markets, exhibitions and debates.

• Geneva funds “GardReObes”, a festival that brings together local sustainable fashion stakeholders for workshops, fashion shows and discussions.

• Nantes (France) has set up “Slow Fashion Training”, a free training programme to raise awareness of responsible fashion, designed by Audencia Business School. In three years, nearly 440 people (members of the public, businesses, students) have been trained.

These initiatives show that raising awareness can take many forms: public events, practical workshops, collaborations with schools, or even partnerships with local stakeholders.

Making your voice heard: advocating for systemic change

Whilst cities can take action locally, they also have a role to play at national and European level. By joining forces, they can influence policy and call for stricter regulations against fast fashion.

An inspiring example is that of Turku (Finland), which joined more than 30 mayors from around the world in signing the ‘ Slow Fashion Declaration ’ ¹. This document calls on the European Union, the G7 and the OECD to :

• Ban advertising for fast fashion in public spaces.

• Extend the Carbon Border Adjustment Mechanism (CBAM) to the textile industry.

• Ban hazardous chemicals in textiles.

• Create a European label for slow fashion.

• Adopt a tax system that favours businesses with a positive impact.

These collective demands show that cities, by joining forces, can influence political decisions and accelerate the transition towards more sustainable fashion.

Conclusion : cities, spearheading a more sustainable fashion industry

The challenges posed by fast fashion and textile waste are complex and multifaceted, requiring action at all levels (local, national and European). However, as this report shows, cities have a key role to play in catalysing change and influencing consumer behaviour.

By implementing measures to promote textile moderation — regulating advertising, encouraging reuse and repair, and raising public awareness — local authorities can accelerate the transition towards a more sustainable, equitable and circular fashion industry. The case studies presented (Geneva, Lyon, Ghent, Turku) show that innovative solutions are already emerging across Europe, proving that change is both possible and necessary.

However, cities cannot act alone. To achieve a systemic transition, they must :

• Develop robust monitoring frameworks to assess the impact of their measures.

• Foster collaboration between citizens, social enterprises and circular economy stakeholders.

• Learn from the experiences of other local authorities and share best practice.

Ultimately, the transition to a more sustainable fashion industry will require a collective effort from society as a whole. But by taking action now at a local level, cities can lead the way, reduce textile waste, promote the principles of the circular economy and foster a culture of responsible consumption, in line with our planet’s ecological limits.

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